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Den indiske krøbling Indien havde aldrig før i tiden sagt mig ret meget, men på et tidspunkt tilbage i 1997 arbejdede jeg sammen med en ung pige, der havde været i Indien og var blevet helt og aldeles vild med landet. Hun berettede så varmt og levende om inderne, hinduismen og landet, at jeg efterhånden blev ret nysgerrig. I 2000 sagde jeg mit daværende arbejde på et plejehjem op og købte en billet til Bombay uden jeg sådan havde sat mig specielt meget ind i hvad jeg gik ind til. Og det skulle gå hen og blive noget af en oplevelse. Det bliver det jo altid, når man bare tager en spontan beslutning, ikke overvejer tingene alt for meget og bare springer ud i det.
Jeg havde alt i alt sat en måned af til mit Indien-besøg og må sige, at jeg på denne tid fik vendt en hel del op og ned på mine ideer om livet og verden. Det gik ret hurtigt op for mig, at det som Troels Kløvedal siger “tag til Indien og du vil aldrig være den samme igen” er fuldstændig rigtigt ramt. Indien efterlader simpelthen en forvandlet og rystet i ens grundvold. Jeg må med det samme erkende, at jeg aldrig helt faldt for Indien, men en oplevelse blev det og at jeg ikke var helt den samme bagefter var nok ikke helt ved siden af.
Fra Bombays kaos tog jeg videre sydpå med toget til Goa, stoppede op i flere byer længere sydpå og nåede til sidst helt ned til Cape Comorin, den absolut sydligste spids af det indiske subkontinent. Jeg kunne se til Sri Lanka og skue ud over Det Indiske Ocean inden jeg igen med tog langsomt bevægede mig op mod byen Madurai for at se det kæmpestore hindutempel i byen. Templerne er utroligt imponerende, med et utal af farverige hindufigurer, pynt og gudegaver. Det er virkelig et sandt overflødighedshorn af farver, dufte og indtryk. Indien er i det hele taget en eksplosion af farver og rører alle sanser.
Men samtidig er det jo også et helt utroligt fattigt land eller dvs. de fattige er virkelig fattige, der findes bestemt også rige indere der både er veluddannede og lever et godt liv. Men de fattige og mennesker fra de laveste kaster var desværre nok dem jeg så flest af og egentlig også som rygsæksrejsende var mest i berøring med, når de med bedende øjne kom og tiggede. Især var børnene altid påtrængende, forståeligt nok, når man så hvilke kummerlige kår de levede under.
Jeg blev hurtigt træt, forstået på den måde, at der bare var mennesker overalt, alle havde det skidt og havde intet at spise, jeg kunne og skulle ikke hjælpe alle, men det var på mange måder ganske frustrerende at være vidne til. Jeg følte bare, at Indien var et stort bundløst hul mht. fattige mennesker, nød og uværdige forhold. Og som turist blev man simpelthen jagtet konstant, så jeg syntes det var trættende.
Efter Madurai tog jeg op til Madras og fløj her efter med Air India til New Delhi. En af mine store ønsker i Indien var -som så mange andre – at se Taj Mahal. Dette smukke hvide marmor mausoleum blev bygget i midten af 1600 tallet af Shah Jahan til hans kone Arjumand Bano Begum som døde i barselseng i 1631. Jeg så mausoleet og tilbragte et par dage i byen Agra hvor Taj Mahal ligger og da jeg så skulle videre med toget til Varanasi skete der nogle ting, som i den grad gik over i min rejsehistorie. Noget jeg her mange år efter tænker tilbage på med et skævt smil om munden.
Toget fra Agra til Varanasi skulle afgå fra togstationen kl 17.50, og selvom jeg havde prøvet et par gange at togene ikke kørte helt regelmæssig rent tidsmæssigt, så mødte jeg jo – som den punktlige dansker jeg nu er – op i god tid på stationen. Jeg havde købt billet i forvejen og satte mig på en bænk med min lille og store rygsæk i ventesalen. Det var et sandt orgie af mennesker i denne ventesal. Yogier med guden Shivas striber i panden som symbol på at de var Shivatilhængere, fattige kvinder med udmagrede børn på armen og et væld af sælgende. Der var en larm, leben og panik af en anden verden og jeg måtte virkelig have et øje på mine ting konstant.
På et tidspunkt sætter der sig en lille dreng sig ved siden af mig, han er nok omkring 8 – 10 år. Han sidder lige så stille og gør ikke væsen af sig. Vi sidder begge to bare der i vrimlen af mennesker og kigger. Lige pludselig giver det sig til at styrtregne udenfor, det regner virkelig voldsomt og snart både lyner og tordner det også. Himmel og jord står nærmest i et og vandet fosser ned fra taget i store kaskader. Prikken over i’et er så da strømmen går. Det er efterhånden blevet mørkt og der er nu bælgmørkt i ventesalen. Der bliver et endnu større leben blandt folk, sådan lidt grænsende til lidt panik, selvom man sikkert i Indien er vant til den slags. Jeg holder endnu mere ved mine ting og får med møje og besvær gravet ned til min lille lommelygte frem fra rygsækkens dyb og får den tændt i virvaret. Folk bliver helt og aldeles overraskede og ser på mig i lommelygtens skær som om jeg er en helgen der lige har skabt lys midt i mørket. Den lille dreng syntes også det er fuldkommen fantastisk og vi sidder og smiler lidt til hinanden og udveksler et par ord.
Så kommer der en mand hen og sætter sig ved siden af drengen, og begynder at snakke til mig. Han taler udmærket engelsk, og vi udveksler de sædvanlige fraser. Han er meget nysgerrig denne mand på en lidt ubehagelig måde og spørg hvilken religion jeg tilhører. Det går man åbenbart meget op i Indien. Jeg forklarer ham, at vi er kristne i Danmark, hvorpå manden brutalt genner drengen væk og sætter sig ved siden af mig – meget tæt på! Med slibrig stemme nærmest gnider han sig op af mig – dog uden at røre – og siger at han er buddhist. Han er helt igennem en træls type og i næste sekund finder jeg på undskyldningen, at nu kommer mit tog snart, så jeg går ned på perronen. Hvis jeg skal være helt ærlig så styrtede jeg afsted, fra denne nærgående fyr, der åbenbart troede at han kunne tillade sig lidt af hvert i fuldt offentlighed.
Der er ca. en halv time til mit tog skal komme og jeg står og venter. Jeg er ikke helt tryg ved situationen, da jeg er en smule bange for, at manden skal følge efter mig. Han kan måske ikke gøre så meget på en station blandt mange mennesker, men ubehagelig var han lige meget hvad. Toget viser sig at være forsinket og der er stadig bælgmørkt på perronen, der står dog en del mennesker, så jeg er ikke som sådan utryg ved at stå der, kun bange for om manden skal dukke op. Jeg skal virkelig passe på mine ting i mørket.
Flere tog dukker op, men ikke mit tog og perronen er efterhånden ved at være tømt for mennesker. Jeg kan ikke rigtigt gå nogen steder, hvis toget nu skulle dukke op og bliver nødt til at blive siddende. Klokken bliver senere og senere, tiden snegler sig afsted og for at gøre en lang historie kort så kommer mit tog først kl. 3 om natten. I den forgangne tid har jeg siddet på perronen og mødt de mest besynderlige mennesker, der er dukket op næsten ud af de blå. Som sagt knugkrammer jeg mine ting og føler mig efterhånden temmeligt udsat sent om natten på en efterhånden små øde banegård. På et tidspunkt sætter jeg mig ned ved en slags blomsterkumme og har mine rygsække til venstre for mig. Jeg er egentlig ikke bange for at falde i søvn, tror faktisk at jeg har alle antenner så kraftigt ude, at det ville være helt umuligt for mig at falde i søvn – selv ved et uheld.
Pludselig sidder der en rundt om hjørnet ved blomsterkummen, jeg får et chok og drejer mig om for at se hvem det er. Jeg stirrer lige ind i vansiret ansigt på en ung mand der er krøbling og hjertet farer op i halsen på mig. Han ser virkelig uhyggelig ud og virker lusket, han kan ikke gå men kravler frem på sine forkrøblede og mishandlede ben og fødder. Men ikke desto mindre fornemmer jeg en fandeivoldsk snuhed hos ham, som opstår når folk hele livet har skullet klare sig på samfundets bund – i rendestenen bogstaveligt talt! De skal jo overleve på en eller anden facon og så tyer de til ufine metoder, fattigdom kan drive folk langt.
Jeg har selvfølgelig siden set oceaner af krøblinge, syge, handicappede, blinde og på anden måde elendige skabninger der ingen hjælp får i klodens tredie verdens lande, men denne krøbling i natten i Indien har jeg aldrig glemt. Hele situationen var fuldkommen grotesk, mit tog var forsinket, der var tordenvejr, strømafbrydelse og jeg bliver antastet af en uhyggelig skabning der i mørket.
Nu havde jeg imidlertid gjort mig den erfaring efter et par uger i Indien, at der ikke skulle ret meget kysen til før selv de mest påtrængende typer holdt sig væk. De blev trods alt lidt utilpas til mode, når jeg rejste mig op med mine 180 cm og truede af dem. Ikke fordi jeg havde lyst til det, men fordi det ustyrligt tit var nødvendigt. Det virkede som regel også ret voldsomt på dem, at det var en hvid kvinde der i den grad pustede sig op og hvæsede noget ud i hovedet på dem. Jeg havde også fundet ud af hvordan jeg selv reagerede, når jeg blev virkelig bange. Jeg blev nemlig stiktosset, vred, gal og hidsig helt ind i marven og så fik de al min indestængte vrede lige i hovedet uden filter.
Og det tror jeg ikke lige helt, at denne faktisk ganske modige krøbling havde gjort sig klart. Det var helt tydeligt, at hans plan var at hugge en af mine rygsække, hvordan han så end havde tænkt sig at det skulle lade sig gøre. Men hans desperation gjorde vel at han helt igennem havde tænkt sig at gennemføre projektet. I spiltsekunder løb det gennem hovedet på mig – alle disse ting og overvejelser – om verdens fattigste, deres håbløse situation og desparate handlinger for at overleve. Men af med min rygsæk ville jeg altså ikke, koste hvad det ville, så jeg vendte hovedet om mod ham, fandt mit allermest effektive dræberblik frem og hvæsede ud mellem tænderne “Don’t even think about touching my backback or i will kill you!” (du skal ikke så meget som tænke på, at røre min rygsæk, så slår jeg dig ihjel!”). Det fik ham i den grad til at spærrer øjene op og ligne en der havde set et spøgelse, hvorefter han på sine sammenkrøllede forkrøblede ben forsvandt ud i mørket med frygten i øjnene som en hund der havde fået tæsk.
Jeg blev selv noget overrasket over, at mine ord havde så stærk en virkning på ham, det var faktisk ikke meningen at han skulle tage mine ord helt bogstavelig. Jeg havde faktisk ikke tænkt mig at slå ham ihjel der midt på perronen, men havde bare i sinde at beholde mine ting. Men bange blev han, og det var jo sådan set også planen – men jeg fortrød lidt at jeg i den grad havde skræmt livet af staklen. Det var nok min egen skræk og hele situationen der rendte lidt af med mig.
Da toget endelig rullede ind på perronen havde jeg et par timer før fundet sammen med en engelsktalende indisk læge som jeg holdt mig lidt til. Han kendte jo selvfølgelig alt for godt disse krøblinge, og gik endda så langt til at kalde dem mindre flatterende ting, hvilket jeg jo syntes var lige lovligt hårdt. I Indien får man jo ikke så meget som skyggen af chance i livet hvis man er født som handicappet eller den laveste kaste, så må man klare sig selv under de mest uværdige forhold og blive hånet af resten af samfundet. Men ifølge deres religion er det jo folks karma der i disse sager gør sig gældende.
Krøblinge har på en eller anden måde gjort sig fortjent til deres skæbne i en anden inkarnation, så man skal ikke have ondt af dem. Og ligemeget hvad, så er de altså en del af det indiske samfund og er allestedværense. Det var nok et af de ting der gjorde mest indtryk på mig i Indien, at alt er udstillet, alt ligger på gaden, folk uden ben, døde hunde, hellige køer, gamle tiggende koner, affald, gamle grøntsager, rotter render rundt og alt dette bliver et stort stinkende sammensurium af skidt. Men Indien er bestemt også et interessant land med en fascinerende historie og kultur, men det hele kan godt drukne lidt i horder af hellige køer, menneskemængder og kaotisk trafik.
Som en krølle på historien hører det med, at fortælle, at da toget endelig ruller ind på perronen holder den stille i så kort tid at jeg – da jeg endelig finder ud af at det er det rigtige tog – er ved slet ikke at komme med. Da toget sætter sig i gang hænger jeg med min store rygsæk og tunge trekkingstøvler ude på trinbrættet. Folk inde i toget har ikke set, at jeg gør tegn til at skulle med, så de knalder den tunge jerndør i mens jeg hænger ude på trinnet. Jeg får døren lige i brystet og hamrer desperat på ruden. Jeg kan hverken komme frem eller tilbage, og selvom tog generelt ikke kører særligt hurtig i Indien, så ville jeg være ked af, at skulle hænge udenfor døren hele vejen til Varanasi kl. 3 om natten med to rygsække på. Endelig fatter de, at de skal lukke døren op, og ind vælter jeg med al min oppakning. Toget er 17 gange mere end overfyldt, der er mennesker overalt, man kan simpelthen ikke se gulvet for mennesker, pakker, rissække, slangetæmmere og chai-sælgere.
Jeg får mig med besvær most hen til min liggeplads, der består af et træbrædt og ligger resten af natten i en ubekvem stilling med hovedet på mine rygsække, af skræk for at nogen skal finde på at negle dem i løbet af turen. Næste formiddag ankommer jeg til Varanasi med et lettere hold i nakken og endnu en besynderlig oplevelse rigere. Og jeg må sige, at jeg har ikke været i Indien siden og er heller ikke sikker på, at jeg nogensinde kommer der igen, men en oplevelse var det så afgjort!
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