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Femstjernet hotel eller rotterede - du bestemmer selv Jeg er kommet til en ny by – Meridá, som jo er hovedstaden i delstaten Yucatan. En rigtig hyggelig by, rigtig latinamerikansk med masser af mennesker og larm på den centrale Plaza Grande (torvet) en stor katolsk katedral osv. – så det hele er her!
Jeg havde fundet et hotel som jeg helt sikkert mente, ville være hittet – sådan så det i hvert fald ud på papiret – men jeg skulle da blive grundigt meget klogere.
Hotel Latino lo i en stille sidegade, som jeg regnede med måtte være roligt, og hvor jeg da helt sikkert regnede med at kunne få en stille nattesøvn. Men som med så meget andet bliver man jo klogere for hver dag der går!
En halvsnusket hotelfatter viste mig mit kammer og da han åbner døren flyver der en hel sværm af myg ud inde fra værelset. Nåh ja det går vel over tænker jeg jo, rummet var billigt og det er jo begrænset hvor meget Hilton standard man får for 10 dollar. Jeg kan jo leve med det meste.
For det første er der ingen dør ind til badeværelset, dvs. ja der var faktisk slet ingen væg, heller ikke noget toiletbræt, men det er nu da en mindre detalje. Der var skidengule fliser – man skal jo altid forsøge at se skønheden hvor den ikke rigtig er, så jeg kunne leve med det også!
Der var stadig myg i læssevis, så mange at jeg ender op nede på apoteket, og for købt et eller andet Lidokainlignende – lokalbedøvende creme som apotekeren for mig prædiket på.
Hen på aftenen forsøger jeg at falde i søvn uden at blive ædt helt op af de små møjmyg. Jeg for taget lidt forskellige tiltag i brug og lige lidt hjælper det. Jeg prøver at sove med min Bushmyggehat fra Australien med indbygget myggenet, hvilket resulterer i at jeg er halvt filtret ind i lagner, silkelagen, mig selv og hat. Rasende står jeg op og slår myg ihjel, aner ikke hvor de kommer ind henne, men de er der og har tilsyneladende set sig meget forelsket i mine hvide ben. Jeg må nok indse at jeg har trukket en nitte mht. hotel denne nat. Jeg betragter hverken mig selv som sart, forfængelig eller fanatisk – men det her er godt nok lige i overkanten af hvad jeg syntes er fedt.
Jeg kravler helt ned i min silkelagenpose, men har dem mistænkt for at stikke igennem stoffet, da jeg alligevel for myggestik på benene, så de er både seje og ihærdige. Jeg stinker efterhånden af eddike som et glas drueargurker som vor mor lavede dem, det tager kløen, men forhindrer stadig ikke myggene i at stikke.
Kl. 23 er jeg aldeles vanvittig af kløe og ingen søvn, og går ud til ham den halvsnuskede i receptionen, som i øvrigt ser fodbold på et ret højt lydniveau sammen med et par kammesjukker. Larm og myg – wauw sikken en kombination.
Han viser sig at være vældig flink og giver mig en halvtom spraydåse med mygge-gift, som jeg går helt amok med inde på værelset indtil den dog hurtigt er tom. Så finder han på en ny ide – jeg for en myggespiral med på hummeret, et af dem der fungere som en røgelsespind hvor myggene ikke kan lide røgen. Jeg kan nu heller ikke lide røgen, men der er frit valg mellem myg og røg, og så vælger jeg røgen.
Falder ved at mirakel i søvn, vågner igen kl. 6 og ligner en der er to stationer fra en skoldkoppeepidemi. SÅ ER DET NOK!
For lige at fuldende billedet så stopper mit toilet, og der er ingen vand i vandhanen, så jeg ender med at børste tænder med vand fra bruseren.
Det var simpelthen dråben!
Jeg står op og går ned på det hostel jeg fandt i går nede på torvet. Det kan ganske enkelt ikke blive værre. Heldigvis har de et værelse. Den rareste ældre mand bestyrer stedet som ligger på første salen af en smuk gammel kolonibygning med højt til loftet, søjler og svungne marmortrapper der dog har set bedre dage.
Jeg får jordens dejligste værelse med en god tyk madras, myggenet over hele loftet til 5 dollar mere end mit halvuhumske myggehul på Latino. Sommetider kan det bare blive lidt for billigt.
Tilbage på Latino og hente min rygsæk og jeg flytter ind i mit nye værelse.
Efter et kort hvil vover jeg mig ud i næste projekt som ender med at blive ganske spændende og interessant Det sjove ved at rejse er at man aldrig ved hvad dagen bringer. Her gælder ordsproget “Ingen kender dagen for solen er gået ned” på højeste plan!
Jeg skal finde nogle Mayaruiner som ligger nord for Meridá og hopper på en Colectivo (små minibusser) med retning mod byen Progresso. Chaufføren forklarer noget om at han ikke køre helt ud til ruinen, så meget forstår jeg da. Efter ca. 17 km bliver jeg sat af ude på en øde motorvej. En 4 sporet motorvej med en hel masse brobyggeri i gang – men der er ikke et menneske at se i miles omkreds. En almindelig mindre vej forer ned til ruinen, men den ligger 14 km nede af vejen. Der er hverken biler eller mennesker at se ned ad vejen, så jeg sætter mig på en dæksel og venter på at der skal ske et mirakel. Og det gør der faktisk! Ud af det blå kommer en midaldrende mand, storsmilende. Han kommer over til mig og spørg hvad jeg bette pjok dog laver herude. Vi har en lang snak på mit ubehjælpsomme spansk. Han er en flink fyr og hedder Santiago. Jeg kan da bare køre med ham siger han, joh altså bortset lige fra at han ingen bil har. Men så dukker hans to amigoes op i en hvid Pick up, hvor vi så tilbringer hele vejen til ruinen bagpå i hedt vådt modvind og masser af grin og fnisen. Santiago arbejder i ruinen viser det sig, men det vildeste jeg nu observere at han laver, mens jeg er der er at han sidder i en plastikstol og hyggesnakker med tøserne. Der er nogen der forstår at arbejde!
Det er svære ikke at holde af de latinoer – hver gang han ser mig lyser han op i et stort smil og råber “Hola Anet” (hej Anette), som om han har kendt mig i 100 år.
Ruinen er lidt anderledes end de andre mayaruiner jeg har set. Den hedder Dzibilchaltún og det er også navnet på den lille bitte landsby hvor ruinen ligger. Stedet er fra år 1500 f. Kr og har en rigtig fin Cenote. Helt anderledes end de andre Cenoter jeg har set indtil nu. Den her er en almindelig sø med romantiske åkander og lotusblomster. Men Cenote Xlacah er 40 til 50 meter dyb, og blev i 1958 udforsket af National Geographic som med dykkere fandt over 30.000 Mayafund på bunden. Mange af fundene havde rituel betydning, men de fandt ingen menneskeofringer. Denne Cenote tilhørte åbenbart ikke regnguden. Ruinen har også den største og længste konstruktion i Mexico, en 130 m lang trappepyramideformet ruin. Den mest interessante af ruinerne hedder “De 7 dukkers tempel” og referere til 7 ceremonielle keramikdukker som man fandt her under udgravningen. Dette tempel har ligesom Chichén Itzá som jeg så for nogle dage siden astronomisk betydning, hvor solopgang og solnedgang betyder noget ganske specielt ifølge mayakalenderen.
Ruinen havde også et fint og interessant museum hvor der var skilte på både spansk og engelsk.
Da jeg havde sagt farvel til Santiago begav jeg mig på vej ud for at finde en mode at komme tilbage på. Jeg var so langt ude på landet at det godt kunne blive svært, helt hvordan det skulle ende op anede jeg intet om. Der var jo som sagt 14 km ud til motorvejen og jeg kunne jo ikke gå, dels pga. afstanden, men mest fordi vejen var meget øde. Jeg kunne sikkert nå at blive kidnappet en 30 til 40 gange inde jeg nåde ud til vejen.
Ingen taxier eller busser, noget som helst. Hvad gør man så? En ting det er godt at have i rigelige mængder af i Latinamerika er tid og tålmodighed. Så jeg valgte at begynde at gå, så måtte der jo ske et eller andet på et tidspunkt. Jeg mener der er jo altid en dag i morgen ikk!
Først kom jeg forbi 3 mænd der stod midt på vejen og var ved at sko en hest, der stod bundet til en lastbil. Hyggeligt.
Senere spurgte jeg en enlig gadesælger om en bus eller Colectivo. Nejjj han så godt nok lidt tvivlende ud. Tror nok jeg forstod så meget at bussen kørte herud hver 3. time. Det var jo i den grad opløftende nyt. Ups jeg var vist ude i noget.
Til sidst satte jeg mig på en kantsten, jeg havde forresten heller ikke mere vand, og heden var hidsig. Gode råd var dyre. Bedst som jeg var ved at forberede mig på at skulle tilbringe natten under åben stjernehimmel, kom en Pick Up kørende. Det var et yngre par, som so meget pålidelige ud. Jeg var helt klart nødt til at blaffe hjem, det var absolut eneste mulighed, med mindre jeg ville vente i halve og hele timer på en bus, som jeg ikke var helt sikker på kom. Jeg ville normalt aldrig nogensinde blaffe alene og da slet ikke i Mexico, men der var ingen vej tilbage. Og siddende bagpå kunne jeg jo nå at springe af hvis de kørte mig på vildspor. Jeg skulle også bare ned til motorvejen og fange en Colectivo, så mon ikke det var ok. Det endte dog med at de skulle til byen Progresso ude ved kysten, om jeg ikke ville med dertil. Joh det kunne jeg jo ligeså godt. Så jeg røg med til Progresso siddende bag på Trucken hæsblæsende ud af den 4 sporede motorvej. Konen havde deres lille søn siddende på skødet og han skreg som en vild, lige indtil han fik øje på mig gennem vinduet omme bagpå. Ja jeg tror ligefrem at ungen blev totalt chokeret over synet af mig med håret stående lige lodret op, for han stoppede i hvert fald med at skrige af bar befippelse.
Det var et rigtigt sødt par, og da vi nåede til Progresso ville de ikke have noget for turen, så det var rigtig sødt af dem. Så sådan gik det til at jeg lige pludselig igen befandt mig ude ved havet, Den Mexicanske Golf. I friskt vind, palmesus og med folk der solgte kølige kokosnødder med sugerør på stranden i bedste Rio De Janeiro stil. Så åh Carpe Diem, grib dagen. Man ved aldrig hvad der sker og godt det samme.
Efter et par timer på stranden og lidt udforskning af Progresso tog jeg en Colectivo tilbage til Mérida. Jeg fik i øvrigt set den længste havnemole i Mexico, som ligger i Progresso. 7 km lang er den. Tilbage i Mérida var der rigtig fest i gaden og på Plazaen. Man forbereder sig på Dia Del Muertos, De dødes dag, hvor man hylder og fejre de døde. Indtil nu virker det en smule som Halloween, der er pyntet op alle steder med gummiskeletter, hekse, kunstigt spindelvæv og sorte gummirotter. For et par dage siden faldt en sort gummirotte ned på gulvet lige ved siden af mit bord, mens jeg sad og spiste Pollo con Arroz, men hva man vænner sig jo til det. Efter en uge i Mexico er man kureret for de værste nykker.
I morgen går turen ud til to Mayaruiner Uxmal og Kabah, og ellers er jeg så småt ved at forberede mig på at tage sydpå mod Belize. Det var vist dagens bedste historier, der kommer nok flere hvis jeg kender Mexico ret.
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